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Flour is a powder consisting of milled grains, nuts and seeds. In the milling process, a wheat seed is split into three separate components - the endosperm, bran and germ - and ground into a fine powder. The endosperm is the largest part and contains the starch, which gives flour its structure. The bran, the outer layer, is rich in fibre, while the germ, which contains essential oils and nutrients, provides some of the flour’s flavour and nutritional value. When flour is mixed with liquids, it absorbs moisture and helps to bind the ingredients together. As the dough is mixed or batter kneaded, the proteins in the flour - glutenin and gliadin - combine to form gluten. This process gives baked goods their elasticity and chewiness. The amount of gluten that is created depends on the type of flour used. Strong white bread flour, for example, has a higher protein content and creates more gluten, which is why it’s used for structure bread loaves.
Different types of wheat contain varying levels of protein, and when milled make ideal flours for different baking purposes. Soft wheat has less protein and makes the best pastries and cakes, while hard wheat has more protein and is perfect for producing yeasted bread. The more protein in the flour, the stronger the gluten production. Gluten forms when the dough or batter is stirred or kneaded. Gluten helps create elasticity and stretch to form air bubbles, which are desired in yeasted bread. Less protein means less gluten formation and a more delicate and tender crumb, which is ideal for pastries.
Stone grinding is a traditional method of grinding grain into flour, producing a wholegrain flour that can be sieved to make white flour. Stoneground flours tend to have a richer flavour and texture and are widely used by artisan bakers who value heritage techniques. Modern roller mills are fast and efficient, producing affordable white flour that may require fortification with calcium, iron and thiamine by law. The organic sector emphasises soil health and regenerative farming; organic flours from brands like Doves Farm carry Soil Association certification, reflecting standards of annual inspection and certification.
Two main gluten-forming proteins exist in wheat: gliadin and glutenin. When flour is combined with water and yeast, these proteins form gluten, which expands and becomes elastic, trapping air bubbles to allow dough to rise. Hard wheats have higher protein content and produce strong, elastic doughs suitable for bread. Soft wheats have lower protein and produce a lighter crumb, ideal for cakes and pastries.
Choosing the right flour is about aligning the grain’s protein quality with the bake’s needs. For bread, prefer bread flour or a high-protein blend to maximize gluten development and dough strength. For tender cakes and pastries, opt for cake or pastry flour with lower protein. For general cooking and a stable all-round option, all-purpose flour is a reliable baseline. When experimenting, you can substitute plain flour with blends of strong and soft flours to adjust hydration and crumb structure.
Understanding Flour Varieties for Baking
Self-raising flour adds raising agents (baking powder and salt) to plain flour, useful for quick breads, scones and similar. You can also make your own self-raising flour by mixing 2 level teaspoons of baking powder with every 100 g plain flour. For pizza bases, pizza flour labeled 00 (Finest) is common in Italy, while French flours graded by ash content (T65, T55, etc.) offer nuanced choices for crust and crumb.
Gluten-free flours can be milled from non-wheat grains such as rice, oats, chickpeas (gram flour), corn, buckwheat, teff, millet, quinoa, amaranth, nuts and seeds. Each gluten-free flour has unique properties and is often used in blends to mimic traditional wheat textures. Cornflour (cornstarch) is commonly used as a thickener rather than a primary baking flour, and should be mixed with cold water before adding to hot liquids to avoid lumps.
| Flour | Protein % | Best for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| All-purpose | 10-13 | General baking, cookies, pastries | Blend of hard and soft wheat |
| Bread flour | 12-15 | Yeasted bread, pizza dough | High gluten, strong structure |
| Cake flour | 6-8 | Cakes, muffins, delicate pastries | Bleached or treated to lower protein |
| Pastry flour | 7-9 | Flaky pastries, Danishes | Softer gluten than bread but more than cake |
| 00 flour | 11-12 | Pasta, pizza bases, light bread | Very fine grind, Italian tradition |
| Semolina | 13+ | Pasta, certain breads, desserts | Durum wheat endosperm |
| Rye flour | 8-17 | Rye breads, denser loaves | Low gluten, distinctive flavour |
In the UK, terminology varies by brand and region, but the core distinction remains protein-driven gluten formation. Many flours are named by milling process (stoneground vs roller-milled) or by intended use (bread flour, all-purpose, cake flour). The organic and heritage ranges emphasise traditional grains and farming practices, while gluten-free options offer alternatives for those with restrictions.
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